Tales along the way in my quest to Integrate Everything.

Anyone who knows me is aware of my affinity towards Linux and Open Source software (and hardware!) Now that Metal Minds Inc. has a 3D printer, a laser cutter and a CNC mill (Shapeoko 3), I have been challenging myself and learning how to design 3D objects, experimenting with translating those ideas into both laser-cut and mill-cut physical objects. The 3D Printer is at Mark’s house so I don’t get to play with it [ever.] However, I’ve been doing a lot of work on tuning the laser of late, the most recent task to tackle has been figuring out how to get it to engrave an image onto an object.

At the moment, both machines came with Windows-based software to get them to do their thing. This, of course, requires the Windows operating system – a stranger to my house. The laser came with a small Windows desktop PC so that was no issue, and I’ve set up a virtual Windows 7 machine on my laptop, but I’d really like to break away from the constraint of having to use dedicated computers for this single task. Mark has been advocating using Raspberry Pi’s to drive each machine, since all the heavy lifting is done on the design / G-Code generation side and the computer driving the cutting device is merely reading text-based instructions to it. “Go here, cut this, move there, etc.” To investigate the possibility of moving away from Windows for this task, I’ve been dabbling in a number of free, Open Source tools such as Inkscape and EMC2.

Ever since my first 286 running Corel Draw, I have had a hard time trying to grasp the manipulators of vector-based graphics. Immersing myself in it recently, I’ve started to understand the tools a lot more, and even begun to wield them to my will. It was probably the limited amount of time spent using them and the large quantities of time in-between attempts that restricted my progress on the matter, as now that I’ve been spending hours a night trying to get the wire meshes and node handles to make the lines go where I want them to, results are starting to form.

The next step is to get the software to talk to the hardware. The Shapeoko shouldn’t be much of a problem as there is a post on their web site showing all the settings you need to enter in order to make it work with the Linux CNC project. I doubt the laser will be much of a problem either, but it connects to the computer via a good old-fashioned parallel port. My laptop certainly doesn’t have such a thing on it, but I’m sure you must be able to get USB – Parallel Port adapters. I took the laser apart a few weeks ago after it started having some problems with one of the axis’s, the Y stepper motor was grinding inside it’s housing. I took it apart, reset the bearing and checked all the clearances. After re-assembling everything, the gantry moved much smoother than it ever did before.

Our laser cutter partially taken apart to repair a faulty Y stepper motor.

Our laser cutter partially taken apart to repair a faulty Y stepper motor.

I’ve been fervently working on the second version of the Venturii protocol for talking to Venturii devices. My goal remains the same, to produce an open source data acquisition and control platform that will have something for both the do-it-yourself’ers, wanting to hit the ground running but design and build their own devices, and we’re producing purpose-built devices for those who just want to buy something off the shelf that works.

Snowflakes carved with a Shapeoko 3 CNC Router

Snowflakes carved out of 1/4″ Baltic Birch plywood with a Shapeoko 3 CNC Router

Once I got the Shapeoko 3 setup, my wife quickly started churning out projects for [us] to work on using it. The first of what I’m sure will be many was this: Making wooden snowflakes to hang in our windows. Of course, I’m just starting to break the ice in the ocean of CNC Routing, but the Shapeoko 3 is a pretty nice machine and I think I’m starting to get the hang of some of the basics.

Quarter Inch 5x5" Baltic Plywood with 3M Mounting Tape Strips

Fixing the material to the wasteboard with 3M Mounting Strips

The first challenge is fixing the material to be routed to the waste board. Because of the intricate cuts in the snowflake designs I was attempting, I needed both the inside and the outside of the object to be fairly rigid; too much movement of either component would lead to sloppy cuts. I picked up a variety of double-sided tape products from my Home Depot, notably Carpet Tape, Gorilla Tape and 3M Mounting Tape. Here too there is a fine balance between good adhesion and holding strength versus can you get the stuff off your finished product? With the carpet tape, did it hold the material in place? Yes. Could I remove the remaining pieces from the finished work? Not a chance. The clear Gorilla tape did a decent job of holding and peeling off, but I ended up using nearly the entire roll on one snowflake.

The far and away winner was the 3M Mounting Strips. Good holding strength, easy to remove from finished works, and as an added bonus – because of their thickness – a narrow gap was created between the working material and the waste board, allowing sawdust to clear out below the material being cut as well. This really helped since my end mill employed a downward cutting style. I adjusted the G-Code to cut pretty close to 1 mm below the bottom of the Baltic Plywood so that it did not excessively gouge my scrap piece of waste board.

Shapeoko 3 Carving Wooden Snowflakes Out Of Quarter Inch Baltic Plywood

Shapeoko 3 Carving Wooden Snowflakes Out Of Quarter Inch Baltic Birch Plywood

Watching the Shapeoko 3 work is like watching a fire burn: It is truly mesmerizing. The last hurdle I have to overcome centers on the type of end mill I’ve been using. When I got the Shapeoko 3, we only ordered one end mill with it. On Amazon, that bit cost about $20 for a 1/8″ 2-Flute Spiral Downward Cutter. Despite careful planning and placement of a table clamp on one of my earlier attempts, the router effortlessly carved out the piece I was making – and then on it’s way back to the home position, it pulled the spinning bit across the metal clamp – decisively ending that bit’s cutting career. I had a couple of spare Dremel cutting bits, so decided to see if any of them would work. Early results with thick (5/8″ – 3/4″) plywood were very promising, but the CEL (Cutting Edge Length – see, I’m starting to spricko the lingo!) on those bits was about 26mm if I remember correctly, and so on the 1/4″ Baltic Birch, the bit had so much flex in it that trying to cut the intricate patterns was like trying to write with a pencil whilst gripping it by the eraser: Cuts were sloppy, circles did not completely carve out, and I thought I was going to break the bit. Slowing down the cuts only caused the wood to start burning, while faster cuts produced cleaner edges but less precision.I think one of my Dremel bits got a bit gunked up with some of the adhesive residue, which – combined with the heat from the friction produced some bumps that increased the friction and filled my workshop with smoke. I replaced the bit with a new one and it cleaned up the cuts substantially, but it was evident – this was not the ideal application for these bits.

Since then I’ve ordered a variety of end mills from my favorite online wholesaler Aliexpress, and once they arrive I have many more projects and cuts to attempt.

While not specifically Venturii-related, I am hoping to use the router to build several enclosures and housings, perhaps even some control panel and user interfaces for Venturii and Venturii devices. That is my loose tie-in, and excuse for posting this project here. 🙂 Actually I’m envisioning a number of button / switch / LCD Display panels made out of wood and/or Acrylic that would be appropriately located near relevant data sources. More on that later!

I regularly scan the local electronics recycler for deals on last-chance electronic devices. I’ve run Asterisk for about a year on my home VOIP phone system, using a Linksys PAP-2T SIP to POTS converter, and it has worked flawlessly. However, there has been a flood of used IP phones on the Recycler’s web page of late, and one in particular caught my eye. This was a used Cisco CP-7970G SIP VOIP (Voice Over IP) phone, and a very nice one at that. The problem: It didn’t work.

As it turned out, this particular phone had a manufacturing defect in one of the connectors that joins the circuit board to which the ethernet cables are connected and the main PCB. During initial insertion, one of the tiny pins that joins circuits from one PCB to the other got misaligned, and the insertion force then broke off the pin. Being practically contained and with nowhere to go, the pin remained in almost the exact spot it needed to be, and in fact continued to conduct the electrons on their merry way, but even the slightest “tug” on any of the connected cables would create just enough of a gap that the circuit would be broken.

Some fine soldering on my part later and I had created an alternate path for those electrons, and removed the remnant of the pin from the connector. The result? A perfectly working SIP based Cisco VOIP phone with color touch screen and 8 line support – for the low, low price of one easy payment of only $39.95. (Said in my best infomercial voice.)

Completed Whiskey Five Gallon Fountain in a Whisky Barrel - Ready For Planting

Completed Whiskey Five Gallon Fountain in a Whisky Barrel – Ready For Planting

Ever since I was a little boy I enjoyed water. In particular I love moving water, and to be exact – controlling the flow of water. Recently I found a sketchbook from when I was about 7 or 8 depicting a water fountain idea I had at that time. It was technically detailed, including the pump, plumbing and electrical connections. It even had sensors for measuring water level, and a top up water supply controlled by an electric solenoid valve should the water level dip below the mark, protecting the pump from dry running and burning out.

Fast forward 25 years or so, and the opportunity presented itself to actually build a water fountain. While not quite as elaborate as my original childhood design (which included multiple basins and levels, a brook and collector basin) this one would serve as a good starting point in fulfilling a childhood dream. In fact, it turned out to be simple enough to build, and has already provided several years of enjoyment to myself, my family, and everyone who walks past our house and notices it.

First, a parts list:

  • Five Gallon Bucket. Provides a reservoir for the water.
  • Fountain pump. I used a 200 GPM model purchased from Home Depot, but many models & sizes will work.
  • Several feet of copper pipe. I used some scraps I had lying around, but total quantity would amount to less than 8′.
  • Plastic Tubing. Connects the outlet of the fountain pump to the copper pipe.
  • Copper T’s and Elbows. Used to build the base and the spout structure.
  • Decorative Tap. I used a classic model purchased from Plumbful Warehouse, but many styles would suffice.

Copper Elbows In The Bottom Of A Five Gallon Bucket

Start by placing four copper elbows in the bottom of the five gallon bucket. This will give you an idea of how big your base for the spout structure will end up being. It will also show you how long each piece of copper pipe will need to be to make the base fit your particular bucket. Not all buckets are created equal! Next, cut pieces of copper to connect the copper elbows to each other, forming the base of your fountain structure.

Fountain Base Assembled Inside Bucket

The base should look something like this. Next you need to determine how far up the vertical pipe you want to cut in your fountain pump connection. Generally you want to keep the water intake on your pump off the bottom of the bucket to prevent it from getting clogged with debris. I decided to place a two-by-four under the pump, and so measured off the appropriate height from there to determine where to cut in the copper T in the vertical pipe.

Fountain Pump with Copper base inside five-gallon bucket

While getting the sizing just right for the base of the pump and outlet stand, I tested the pieces by assembling them and placing them inside the bucket where they would live.

I went with a 3/4″ to 1/2″ x 1/2″ Tee to reduce the number of fittings I’d need. The base ended up being all 3/4″ copper, while the riser ended up being 1/2″. Because of the weight of water, I thought it would work better to have less water weight in the vertical part for the pump to have to lift. Of course on a fountain this size it probably made little to no noticeable difference, but in my case it seemed like a good idea at the time. Next I attached a piece of scrap copper I had lying around which included a dog leg kick already, and cut it to the appropriate length to give my fountain aproximiately a 1′ drop from tap spout into the bucket. Too much of a drop and you will get a lot of splash & splatter, too little drop and you will not hear the sound of the water. Plus I did not know what I would be doing for cover over the bucket, so I wanted to leave my options open.

Completed Fountain Assembly Without Pump

Completed Fountain Assembly Without Pump

Five Gallon Water Fountain Pipes and Pump Assembled

I used a PEX to Copper nipple to connect the fountain pump to the copper Tee, and about 12″ of 1/2″ Clear Plastic Tubing from the cutoff section of my Home Depot to complete the waterway. One caveat that should not have caught my by surprise was that the two by four that the pump sits on is quite buoyant in water! I ended up having to tie wrap it to the copper tubing base to keep it from floating up and out from underneath the pump!

Five Gallon Water Fountain First Run / Test

Five Gallon Water Fountain First Run / Test

Finally, the moment of truth came when I plugged the pump in and water immediately began to flow out of the tap into the bucket. It was a beautiful thing.

Of course, I had to Venturii the fountain up a little. I added Dallas DS18B20 temperature sensors to the pump and to the copper base, intending to get an ambient water reading and pump temperature reading. I also installed four float sensors at four different heights to give basic water level readings of 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and 4/4 full, and also put together an Ultrasonic Range Finder with a ping pong ball inside a 2″ ABS pipe to attempt to read the water level more accurately. This is the same approach I used to measure the salt level in my water softener, but never got tested before I deployed the fountain. It may need to be re-engineered.

Fountain Assembly With Sensors Assembled

Fountain Assembly With Sensors Assembled

Last but not least, my wife and I filled the bottom of the whiskey barrel with gravel for drainage, and then filled the rest of the whiskey barrel with planting soil. Into that we planted several varieties of dangly flowers, and the result turned out quite nicely.

Five Gallon Water Fountain Whiskey Barrel Flower Planter

Five Gallon Water Fountain Whiskey Barrel Flower Planter